There are no translations available.
History, mysteries and dreams
Santa Cesarea is said to be between sunlight and darkness, demons and angels. The caves here once sheltered a little girl, Cesaria. They were her house. She was obliged to run away from her father. When he reached her, the sea here protected her and then this evil man drowned and disappeared for ever. This happened because Cesaria agreed she had accepted to stay with him and told him to
wait for her in her room and that she would join him there after having washed her feet.
Cesaria then took two doves, tied them up and put them in a basin full of water. The doves started moving about quickly and so Cesaria's father really thought she was washing her feet. If you take a look at the statue of Saint Cesaria, you will see she holds a bowl with doves in it. Then she took a rope, climbed down through the courtyard window and rushed away on a horse towards the Castro promontory. When her father found out what had happened, he was furious and went to Castro immediately. It looked like there was no way out, but she started praying and God sent an angel down on Earth to help her.
Then a mysterious black cloud appeared, throwing Cesaria's father into the sea. Exactly where he fell, the water started stinking and never stopped bubbling. Now, they say you can smell sulphur in this place. While looking towards the blue "Mediterranean sea , this smell reminds us
of mythological legends. As Nicola De Donno wrote: 'these stories are about huge men who were created as monsters, the Giants or Leuterni. They were so arrogant, they attacked the Gods, throwing big stones and firebrands against their big Palace. But the hero, Heracles was called upon by Zeus. Heracles fought against them with all his might and beat them using his bludgeon.
The survivors tried to escape, but he caught them up. At the spot where he hit them they say the earth burns and their enormous bones are still pulled out from the ground by the ploughs. Their bodies disintegrated and their remains penetrated into the ground, making underground water from springs full of sulphur'.
There is still a sense of defiance against fate and the Gods here, but in the end this struggle can have no positive outcome and therefore turns out to be a loss for men that only proves their frailty.... Fate is strong and nothing can stop it. Often while walking along on 'scirocco' days, by the sea you can smell sulphur in the wind but in a way this is reassuring for those who live here.
Nowadays, Santa Cesarea is also a very important spa. This is because hot water (about thirty degrees warm) comes out of four caves, Fetida, Gattula, Solfatara and Solfurea, the cave that sheltered the little girl Cesaria. This water contains sulphur, bromine, iodine, lithium and salt and is well-known for its therapeutic effects. Since Aristotle and Strabone's times, Santa Cesaria's thermal baths have been famous because they face the sea. Nowadays, apart from traditional thermal treatments, you can also have personal treatments and special oriental ones if you wish.
Carmen Longo was an 18 year old swimming champion who died in a plane crash on the 18m of January 1966, in Brema. Santa Cesarea's swimming pool was named after her. Once there even used to be a statue of Carmen on a diving board there. It showed her diving into the water. Her statue used to be the symbol of Santa Cesarea, the town of arrogant giants, the place where a courageous girl who dared to rebel against her father lived. This is the, town of ybris, of Promethean challenges against fate. It also is Carmelo Bene's town because his film 'Nostra Signora dei Turchi' was set here.
Palazzo Sticchi is an outstanding building, you cannot miss it. It is brightly coloured and its dome is orange. But apart from this building, a little house stands out against the sea because of its Moorish architecture. This town makes you want to play with fate, maybe because it gives you a sense of protection at the same time. There is a natural swimming pool here too. Its rocks are tough, dark and solid. Seawater hits the stone and then slowly fills up the pool. Walk on the seafront, towards the south, to get to the small port. Here you will see big stone walls surrounding the boats. Follow the road (there is actually only one road to choose from), going north and you will soon get to an open space where there is a big building, that used to be a casino in the thirties and forties. Again more references to fate. Now all that is left here is houses, memories and clear sparkling water. You can carry on foot or get on a blue and white little train, that looks like something out of another century, when vehicles like this went round the town during local fiestas.
You will be fascinated by this place, that looks beyond time. Catch the train and go lo the pineta ('pine wood'). Here you can take a good look at the sea, houses, buildings and maybe think about your dreams too.
However now it's time to leave Santa Cesarea and carry on with your journey. Moving inland, you will go by Cerfignano, a small town which is part of the Santa Cesarea area. Then, before Vaste, turn right towards Cocumola, that is in the Minervino area. 'A town named Cucumola / is / like having hands covered in flour / and a little lemon-coloured green door'. This is what Vittorio Bodini, a poet from the Salento wrote about this place. Walk around after sunset. You will see local men and women on doorsteps, chatting and breathing in some fresh air. They will look at you 'foreigners' going by, however if you say 'hello', they will answer in a welcoming manner. These small towns are famous for art, architecture, wonderful views but especially because of their special charm. You will discover the importance of doing things in a relaxed and laid back way and smell tomato sauce while it is being made. The houses are one next to the other and there is a church in the middle of the town too. Towns like this are comparable to 'words divided by commas' because of their similarity and because they are so distant from the busy city lifestyle. Carry on and you will get to the next town, Minervino. About five hundred metres from the centre there is a little building called 'dolmen Scusi'. It is made out of eight pillars holding up a big slab of stone. This dolmen is quite mysterious and there are still many things historians don't understand about it. Maybe its name comes from dialect and means 'hidden' so it could have been used to hide something or someone. In the past, people here worked in fields the whole day long, but in the evening everyone sat by their doorsteps, telling stories and legends. There are also many stories about dolmens, maybe because everyone searches for answers to their own questions. Further on, close to a little turning you will see the small Church of the Madonna delle Grazie. Inside the building, there are some big steps, going downwards. The altar is at the back of the building. After roads flanked by olive trees, you will come across the next town, Giurdignano. While the locals play cards, sitting down at the bar, you can go and visit the Crypt of Sim Salvatore. It dates back to the llth century and it was a place of worship for Italian-Greek monks, that came to the Salento area and found peace and calm here. If you want, you could also go searching for dolmens and menhirs in this area. Walk along the road to the cemetery and, even if it gets narrower, carry on. Follow the chirping of cicadas. They will guide you through this little road that was tarmac but is now covered in earth. Slowly, you will start going up a hill and you will see many olive and oak trees. YOU might meet an ape, a small truck, driven by an old farmer who will be puzzled and surprised when he sees other people on the road he has always used to go and work in the fields. Suddenly, you will be on the top of the hill. It is not that high, but high enough if you want to take a look at the whole valley below. While walking amongst green trees, you will spot blinding-white houses and an iridescent blue sea.
While and blue are everywhere. If you look downwards, amongst the fields you will see a small river, the Idro. This river has been described as 'Carlo Magno's miracle'. 'This King was going through the arid hills and past farmhouses in Uggiano and Giurdignano. He was desperate because of the drought, so he hit the rock with his sword and miraculously water came out and turned into a river'. This description is from Raffaele Gorgoni's book, 'The scribe from Casole'. The road leading to Otranto is shady, but every now and then you will see rays of light, that in a way, are an entrance to the town and make you realise you are getting closer to it. You will only see trees, cicadas, a country house and white sheets, drying in the sun. Finally, you will come across the Maglie-Otranto road, that is wide and fast. It will make you want to go back to the small country road you were on. However then Otranto will appear before your eyes and you won't regret it. 'As soon as you get to Otranto, you will be told a story that has been told here since 1480.. Eight-hundred people died and before them babies were torn away from their mothers' breasts, slaughtered or stabbed'. This is what Roberto Cotroneo, who moved to Otranto to live, wrote about what happened.
Start visiting Otranto by walking along the lungomare degli Eroi (the Heros' Promenade), below the old town. After the monument built in honour of the martyrs, designed by the sculptor Antonio Bortone, walk down the steps and go in to the old town. To do this you should go through Porta Alfonsina, that was built after the liberation of Otranto, because it was included in Alfonso d'Aragona's fortification plan. On each side, flanking it, there is a round tower. Narrow streets will guide you through the town. 'You will have the impression they are never-ending, as if space grew bigger and streets got smaller, forming labyrinths, and however much you walk you always seem to end up in the same spot. This is because Otranto is small, much smaller than you could imagine, but once you start walking you have the feeling every little road has lots of different sides to it... Walking around here is never the same, because the light and your imagination change the way you see things' (Cotroneo), As you walk along, you will hear scacciapensieri, that are displayed outside shops and tinkle in the wind. Otranto is often windy and there are two main colours here. First of all light blue, the colour of silence here, while white is the colour of memories, fears, old ghosts and thoughts that cannot be blown away by the wind. For instance, the fear of the Turks. You will definitely perceive this as you enter the Cathedral. It is on a beautiful little square and stands out because of its circular Renaissance rose window with ribs meeting in the centre. This unique rose window was designed according to Gothic-Arab art rules. During the incursions, the Cathedral was a shelter for women and children, but the Turks found them and many people were killed. They say blood was everywhere, for instance on the Pantaleone mosaic, that was started in 1163 and finished in 1166. It was done by a monk from the Abbey of San Nicola di Casole. He was a meticulous and imaginative artist and was famous for his mastery and taste. He depicted Life on the Cathedral floor. They say blood covered the pictures, symbols and the backs of the two elephants holding up the roots of the tree of Life. Otranto was attacked on 14™ August, 1480. Now, all that is left is the bones of the eight-hundred martyrs. They are in seven reliquaries in the Chapel within the apse, in the right nave of the Cathedral After five-hundred years, skulls and tibias are still here, behind glass, reminding everyone who comes here just how terrible war can be. They say that once, in the crypt, there was a well full of blood. People died on the Minerva hill, which is to the south-east, on the outskirts of the town.
They were beheaded halfway up the hill where a Chapel now stands, and, at the top of a flight of stairs, at the Sanctuary of Santa Maria dei Martiri. From the Cathedral, you can then walk down again, towards the sea and get back onto the road leading to the Castle and the port. You cannot miss it because there are small souvenir shops every where and in summertime there are so many tourists here it is hard to walk. At the end of the road, to the left of the Castle, you will notice some wooden steps, leading up to the port, but if you decide to turn left and walk up, you will reach the ramparts Here you can stand and stare at the blue sea all around you, feel the wind blowing and ask it questions trying to interpret its answers.
In summer there are so many people here sitting in pubs and restaurants oron the wall facing the sea, that they say Carmelo Bene, who used to live nearby, on top of one of these pubs, often used to get angry and shouted at all the noise and chattering.
On the other hand, this place is quite quiet for the rest of the year. Between the Cathedral and the city walls, you will see a 'maze' made up of lots of little streets, covered with ancient stones. Otranto's little lanes, small squares and balconies decorated with geraniums give the town a magical feeling. Right in the centre of one of these little squares, stands the Byzantine Church of San Pietro that miraculously is still in quite good condition, unlike many other churches in Italy
The main body of the Basilica is shaped like a Greek cross and divided into three small naves. On the left, you will see what is left of Byzantine paintings, that once covered the whole church. A little street leads to the Castle. During the eighties, it was restored and now the old moat is used for events and concerts. You have to walk across a bridge, because of the moat, to get into the Castle, that was built by the Aragonese between 1485 and 1489 on the ruins of an already existing fortress. This Castle is shaped like a pentagon and there are three round keeps on the corners. It looks as though it is pointing towards the sea, because of a rampart shaped like the tip of a spear, that was added to the building in 1578 along with outside defence walls. In the moat, there still are some of the granite balls shot by Turkish cannons in 1480. Imagine their piercing sound, while blue and white became red. Walking away from the town and its many stories and leaving the port on your left you can turn onto a road leading to the Orte. In order to turn off here, you have to walk across a square with a big cross in it. This is where Pope Wojtyla commemorated the martyrs in 1980. Walking further along, you will come across the 'lake of blood'. It is a small rainwater-lake that is in what once, used to be a bauxite quarry. At sunset, rays reflect on the red walls and the water inside the lake looks like blood. At the end of every day, the rays look like knives cutting through the water, while, all around, frogs croak.
Carrying on a little, you can take a look at the 'Torre del Serpe'. It was built during Roman times, rebuilt by Frederick II and is now, miraculously, still standing. They say that during ancient times a snake used to climb up the Tower walls, then it drank the oil from a lamp and then went down again on the other side of the tower, going righi down to the sea.
One stonny night, when Maria d'Enghien. governed the Otranto area (the so callec Terra d'Otranto), 'this snake went up tin wall like a spiral, stuck its head in through, the metal grating of the highest window. The oil in the lamp in the tower was a way for the port to signal out to sea and was therefore useful to sailors. However the snake, not being aware of this use, drank. all the oil and then digested it, lying down on a stone that silent night. At that moment, a galleon of Venetian merchants was going through the canal. As there was no light, it was immediately shipwrecked on the rocks and the merchants disappeared under the water. They died but found no peace on the bottom of the sea because they wanted to finish their journey. Therefore, every now and then, they walk along the shore, remembering little good things about life'(MariaCorti).
A bit further on, you will see the remains of Casole, a Basilian convent also destroyed by the Turks in 1480. In the same area, in Capo d'Otranto you will find Punta Palascia, which is the place in Italy closest to Albania Sea Museum
By following the coast road, going by Torre Sant'Emiliano, after a few kilometres you will get to Badisco. There are only a few houses here and this place's history is 'underground', because of caves, rocks, caverns, stalagmites and stalactites. On the walls of the Grotta dei Cervi there are hundreds of pictures that date back to the Neolithic period, painted with red ochre and bats' black guano (look at hiking section).
This short but incredibly long journey ends where Enea landed. It comes to an end between sunlight and darkness, demons and angels, in the caves where giants die, heroines find shelter and mysteries and dreams begin.
The far South, surrounded by bright blue sea
Before travelling far south they say you should forget everything you know. 7n this humble place Italy ends in wavy sea before a lighthouse' (Vittorio Bodini).If you want to see the real Salento then you must go to Santa Maria di Leuca, because this is where 'The people from the Salento come back to Church with their hats on their heads after they die' (Vittorio Bodini). Silence is necessary in order to appreciate the lack of something. You need to forget in order to remember a place that seems to have been neglected and abandoned, between two seas.
You will be able to tell you are getting to the 'end of land' even before approaching the sea. The whitewashed walls are silent and blinding at midday because of the bright sunshine. These walls have been here for many years now and cherish events and legends.
In the Salento area, you must travel slowly in order to get to know places well. You should start from Presicce and especially from its old town. Piazza del Popolo is an original looking square and it is in the centre of town. In the middle of this very irregular square, stands an elegant Baroque column, the Column of Sant'Andrea, that points towards the sky on its 17th century pedestal. Upon the balustrade surrounding it stand four female figures, representing the theological virtues. The column seems to compete in height with the bell-tower, which is 27 metres high, and the column stands out against the front of Saint Andrea's Church, that dates back to the late-Baroque period, at the end of the seventeenth century. Then take a look at the hanging gardens on the Palazzo Ducale and Palazzo Villani. The facade of Saint Andrea's Church is Baroque although elegant and plain. Inside the building, there are paintings by Tiso, Catalano, Liborio Riccio. These artists were from the Salento so their pictures can give you an idea of what paintings were like here during the 16th and 17th centuries.
From the Church, you can walk into the adjoining 'Church of the Dead', named like this because of the openings to underground tombs, even though these openings are now closed. As soon as you come out of the Church, you will be struck by the beauty of the Palazzo Ducale's 17th century hanging garden. There are many splendid Palaces in Presicce and walking through the town you can admire their facades covered with decorations and frescos. Palazzo Ducale is one of these buildings. It has a Norman structure and 15tn century features. Not far away, in a small square, there are some ancient underground olive mills. They have been neglected for years and people have thrown objects against the protective metal grating you can look at them through. Nevertheless, the town has started renovating them and now you can also go on a guided tour here in the summer or take a look at the crib at Christmas time. However visiting these mills is not always possible.
Just imagine all the work that made Presicce one of the best olive oil producers in this area. Presicce is the town with the highest number of mills in caves, that were still used up to a century ago and have now been rediscovered for tourism purposes. After more unique Baroque architecture, you may continue your journey. The road to Acquarica del Capo is easy and flanked by olive trees. In the old town, there are still some ruins of the ancient castle, even though houses have been built all the way round it. Once you get here, you can't miss the Masseria Gelsorizzo, which is in the north-west part of the town. It belongs to Acquarica del Capo and is now almost totally ruined. It has all the charm of a place that cherishes mysteries and secrets from other centuries that went by without anyone really noticing. Therefore this is what is left of an old Norman tower, a building with an uncertain future. Kids come here where nobody else can see them, to play mysterious games and try and invent strange machines. In the countryside between Acquarica and Presicce, stands the Pajarone', which is one of the typical 'pajare'. A pajara is a cone-shaped rural shelter, built without cement and simply by using lime stones from cultivated fields. These buildings are real primitive architectural masterpieces. This one in particular is called Pajarone because il is much bigger than the other pajaiv, thai are widespread all over Capo di Lcuca's countryside. Some of these buildings have recently been changed into welcoming ami cool summer houses. On your way lo llficnlo, again you will see many olive trees and oleanders. This area was originally Messapian and in 1961 the precious slalue ol (rod '/.is (Zeus) was discovered here. Il dales back lo the end of the d century li.C. and Hie people from Ugculo call il 'In pupil' Clhe little boy') because before being given to archaeologists il was taken good care of by a woman.
Now this slalue is in Taranto , but in the Ugenlo Museum Ugento . Nowadays, this tower is decorated with black and white squares and it stands out from the port and the marvellous beach. Especially in recent years, many people from Germany , Switzerland and England
To get to Leuca you can follow the coast road and let the waves push you down to the tip of the heel. Then, leaving the southern sandy coast and moving a bit further up, you will get to San Gregorio, a small town part of Patu that formed around a natural port, that will make you feel like stopping for a break here. Further on you can visit Leuca. Its name is symbolic because it comes from 'leucos' that means 'white' in Greek, just like the limestone rocks here, the sea looked at from
far away or the blinding sunlight. The lighthouse that was built in 1864 is 47 metres high and is also white. It stands upon Punta Meliso, 102 metres above sea level. This lighthouse is a reference point for sailors or maybe for whoever comes here to visit Leuca. Because it is so tall and outstanding one wonders if it has managed to look beyond the blue sea and find answers to questions. Maybe the wind whispered answers or maybe the hills of Albania Adriatic and the Ionian is. Perhaps some are confused by the currents and convinced they can see that line, ignoring that actually on all nautical charts the line dividing the two seas is just south of Otranto... If you are approaching the town from the coast road then it is best to go to the lighthouse first of all. Nearby stands the Sanctuary of De Finibus Terrae. The Church is in a sunny square that has recently been restored. The front of the building is plain and faces a statue of the Madonna which is standing on the top of a high column dated 1694 and decorated with a Corinthian capital. Not far away you will see the Croce Pctrina, an iron cross formed by two crossed keys upon an octagonal column made of stone. This is witness to the fact that when Peter was coming back from the East he started preaching here. Everything here suggests that Leuca is a meeting point between the West and the East, the earth and the sea, the finite and infinite world, the human and the divine. Right here, below the Basilica, the Apulian aqueduct ends, and that is why you can see an impressive waterfall, flanked by steps on both sides. This waterfall was actually thanks to Fascism in the south of Italy
After its triumphant inauguration during the 20 year Fascist period, the waterfall stopped flowing for many years because the Salento cannot afford to waste drinking water by throwing it into the sea. Only a few years ago the waterfall stalled working again.
Walking down the steps you can stop for a break at the 'Bar del Porto' ('the bar close to the port') just opposite the exclusive Sailing Club, an important spot for every respectable 'Leucano'. Fishermen in Leuca are in touch with the world from the deep south of Italy Fiume , Presepe, Treporte, Bambino, Giganti, Stalla, Drago...). Every cave has its own history, its silver shades and cool water. Fishermen always say visitors should look at the caves to the east in the morning and the western ones in the afternoon, in order to appreciate the combinations of light and water. On foot, starting from the bar close to the port, carry on and walk over a bridge. Then turn left immediately and walk on until you get to the seafront, partly included in the new port. All along this area, there are several private terraced villas. Most of these houses are built according to the Art-Nouveau style and some of them have Moorish features and are sheltered by a gazebo or embellished with Orients touches. Once, these villas were summer houses that belonged to aristocratic families or to rich middle-class people (even though some of them still are today). They da:; back to the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century and thanks to these buildings Leuca has an exotic and unique charm and is like an Old Lady that follows a fashion of her own.
The first Villa to be built here was Villa La Meridiana , so called because the front of the house has a clock on it. It was designed by a creative engineer, Giuseppe Ruggieri, and was his own summer residence. After that, having a villa here became fashionable amongst that period's jet-set. The Meridiana is now part of a Hotel that is right next to the Villa itself. There are many other villas too, such as Villa Episcopo. that is enriched with a graceful-looking pagoda on the first floor, Villa Mellacque. that looks as though it has come out of a beautiful medieval picture and Villa Daniele-Romasi. (closer to the port bar i that is shaped like a ship and embellished with Arab-Spanish decorations.
Walking along the promenade you will smell oleander trees and you must not miss the bagnarole' They are unique buildings and are big changing rooms, just a few metres from the sea shore. Inside there are some small pools made by digging out the rock by the sea. They are connected to the sea by a small channel and were originally built for ladies so they could have a swim in the sea without anybody looking at them. If you want to carry on travelling through history, go further north until you reach Patu. Once here stood Vereto, a Messapian town that was then conquered and destroyed by the Romans. Centopietre is in this small town. This is a unique Medieval monument, built by using blocks from a Roman mausoleum. It is shaped like a rectangular shrine and its roof is sloping and made out of monolithic blocks.The inside of Centopietre is divided into two asymmetrical naves, separated by columns and pillars that hold up the 26 large slabs forming the roof.
There is some evidence of Byzantine frescos inside, probably dating back to between the 11th and 14th centuries. Opposite, stands the Church of San Giovanni
Alessano is only a few kilometres away from Patu. Tonino Bello remains the most famous citizen of this town. Apulians want their region to be a 'Peace Ark
Palazzo Legari has typical 15m century urban architectural features, while Palazzo Sangiovanni's facade is made of ashlar and cut into diamond shapes. There is an inscription on its central window that says 'Maledetto l'uomo che confida nell'uomo'. 'Dammed be the man that confides in men'. Tonino seems to have completely reversed this warning. This is proved for instance by his march through Sarajevo
He was a Bishop and did not want violence but peace instead. He dedicated his life to helping the weak and frail and this explains why he is a symbol of this area. This is because in this land of olive groves being steadfast and polite are considered important along with courage and strength of ideas and values.
Tonino is spiritually still in Alessano, he lives in the square named after him, in the house he was born in. Next to his house stands the Foundation dedicated to him. His tomb is a place of worship and pilgrims come here to commemorate him. They believe in the importance of what he did but especially in the strength of men. Puglia
This is because, as the ex Rector of the University of Lecce said, 'During Tonino Bello
Sea breeze and fresh air
Gallipoli really is a 'Kale polis', a beautiful city. This town is fascinating because of its colours and smells. It is full of oddities too since one part of Gallipoli is more urbanized and noisier. In this area, especially along Corso Roma, there are many shops and night clubs. Having crossed the bridge, the old part of the town will appeal' before you. Walk through its narrow alleyways. Men make fishing nets with their quick hands while young people go to church to meet and to maintain religious traditions while the women sit in their doorways... As you enter the town, if you only take a look at Corso Roma then you will not find out much about the 'real' Gallipoli. Along this road, many small 18th - 19th century buildings that had perfectly geometrical, neat and elegant facades have now been replaced by reinforced concrete and glass blocks with neon signs. Only when you get to the so called Seno del Canneto, the wide space before the bridge leading to the island the old town was built on, can you look towards the sea and fill your lungs with fresh air. Try and ignore the modern and very out of place sky-scraper that nobody has lived in for many years, in spite of recent alterations that have been added to soften its outline. However the first thing you will spot, below the sky-scraper, is the Greek fountain. Its name is confusing because it actually dates back to the Renaissance period and its frontispiece is Baroque. On the southern side, the most hidden one, there are four pedestals, upon which you will see four caryatids, two male and two female. These caryatids and their capitals hold up an architrave decorated with scenes representing the labours of Hercules. The facade is divided into three equal parts by the frieze and the frame. Each part is dedicated to a nymph (Dirce, Biblide and Salace). High up, in the centre of the triangular stonework, you will see King Philip of Spain
Opposite the Greek fountain, on the port's quay, stands a small and fascinating chapel, the 'Cappella di Santa Cristina'. This Church is plain and simple and its facade is quadrangular. The roof of the building is made up of flat tiles and the bell-tower has a vaulted ceiling. Gallipoli's fishermen worship here.
Nearly opposite the Church stands the Sanctuary of Santa Maria del Canneto. The square has been renovated and is now a pedestrian area. Here you will see Gallipoli's fishermen, the real 'gallipolini'. They moor their boats, called 'paranze', here and these men are always ready to go out to sea.
Beyond the Seno del Canneto, you will see the Castle. The so called Rivellino' is an extra fortification, added in 1552. It looks as though it is floating on the water. Up to a couple of years ago it was actually used as an open-air cinema. It is currently being restored and will still remain a cultural amenity, but not a cinema.
The Castle looks like a boat floating in the sea too. It was rebuilt during the 16th century upon the ruins of an Angevin fortress. It was designed by the military architect, Giorgio Martini. Even though it is quadrangular and has four keeps (one on each comer), it still doesn't quite look like a Castle that was built to defend the town from raids.
'And even though Gallipoli was once a fortress, there is no evidence left of this today. Now people often walk along its bastions. The fronts of the buildings here are smooth. Houses are pale pink or yellow and have no military features, not even hidden ones. Dwellings here have a charm of their own and are the colour of strawberries, bananas and pistachio green. Of all the many peaceful little towns in the area, very few of them have this special atmosphere as you come across them'. This is what the historian Cesare Brandi wrote about Gallipoli. Before getting to the old town defence walls, on your right, where the Castle's original moat was situated, you will see the fish market. You can get here by walking across the stone bridge that was built in 1603 in order to replace the old wooden drawbridge. Now there is a lower bridge next to the main one, that leads us to the port area, which was built just a few years ago after some ground infill and turned into a parking area.
The fish market area is currently being restored and changed. It really is the liveliest part of the town. Here you can banquet on fish and sea urchins or you can buy anchovies, sardines and mackerel. cerniae and sword fish. Look at the variety here and you will understand why they say the traditional fish soup should be cooked according to Gallipoli's recipe. Go up a few steps and, right next to the bridge, you can then enter the old part of the town. It is like a small completely crowded island. Close to the bastions, a road surrounds the whole island, protecting the old town. Once the town walls were a couple of metres high. Now they are lower than they once were and just big enough to stand on to look at the view towards the horizon. Many churches along the coastline face the sea, praying for peace and calling upon the God of water to protect Gallipoli. If you are not familiar with the town, then getting lost in the narrow and tortuous alleyways is easy. Unexpectedly, Baroque facades, bourgeois villas and houses will appear before your eyes. This town looks like a kasbah. 'Gallipoli was built on ground but is like a fearless ship. It is surrounded by bastions like a little boy in a wheelbarrow' (Cesare Brandi). After the bridge, walking in an anticlockwise direction, turn into the road, from the bastions, that dominates the new trading poll. The first building you will come across is the Church of San Francesco da Paola. Its facade is plain and has been embellished with a big framed window and a niche containing a statue of Saint Francis. Then comes the Church of Santa Maria della Purita, which is said to be Gallipoli's most ancient church. Apparently it dates back to the second half of the 16th century. This building brings together faith, history, legends and the sea. It is mentioned as belonging to one of Gallipoli's most ancient religious brotherhoods, the one belonging to the port workers who are linked by religious ideals and local everyday life and help pass on and preserve rituals and traditions. The tombs of the Dead Christ, Cristo Morto, and the Madonna Desolata are kept here, in the vestry. At dawn, on Easter Saturday, these tombs are carried during a religious procession. This is one of the most impressive and fascinating rituals in the Salento (look at the fiestas section). The front of the building is plain and simple and is highlighted by a maiolica triptych which stands out. It represents the Virgin Mother and Child, Saint Francis and Saint Giuseppe. Its shades of colour are special and impressive. As you enter the Church of Santa Maria della Purita, you will see paintings from the Neapolitan school, dating back to the 18th century. Take a look at the picture on the altar in the centre, depicting the Madonna della Purita or the multicoloured papier mache figurine of Saint Cristina that was made by Achille De Lucrezi, an artist from Lecce
Before carrying on, look towards the sea. Just opposite the Church you can walk downhill and get to the wonderful 'spiaggetta della Purita'. It is the only little beach in the old town and it still has not been looked after as much as it should be. Look at the sea again but this time look even further. You will see the 'Scoglio del Campo' and, in the distance, the Island of Saint Andrea, in the bay of Gallipoli that used to be approached with the help of its lighthouse, which is no longer a working lighthouse.
The Island is not lived on and, a while ago, risked being bought. However, it has been recently included in the Pizz.o Regional Park- Island of Saint Andrea (look at hiking and sea sections).
Keep walking along the defensive walls and you will come across the Church of San Francesco
Having explored the whole island, you will probably get back to the same spot you stalled from.
With your back to the ancient Castle, a gift from the Guardia di Finanza that has not yet been restored, turn into Via De Pace. This is the road that divides the town into two parts and is flanked by many little shops, bars and eating places or trattorie. This road is uphill and, after the Diocesan building, there on top of the hill, you will see the Cathedral of Sant' Agata. This is one of the greatest expressions of Salentine Baroque style. Giuseppe Zimbalo, one of Lecce Lecce
Further on, soon after the pale yellow Balsamo Palace
A bit further on, in a road to your right, you will see the spectacular Ex Church of Sant' Angelo, that became an oratory for the Brotherhood of the Immacolata in 1600. Today it is the town library and contains more than ten thousand books. There are works dating back to 1500 and scrolls and manuscripts in Latin.
Not far away, lost in between little streets, stands the Palazzo Tafuri, on the road named after it.
Now it is not lived in and a few years ago it nearly collapsed. However it remains one of the most fascinating palaces in the old part of Gallipoli. Even though the front of the building' has recently been restored the Palace is still neglected and in bad condition. What is striking about its facede are the oval-shaped windows embellished with Baroque friezes sculpted out of the carparo stone. These windows match the rounded balconies. They are made ofl wrought iron and are reminiscent of the Spanish style, maybe because there was aleays trade between Gallipoli and Spain Europe . According to property deeds dating back to the 18th century, there were 35 underground oil mills on Gallipoli's island. Here over 80,000 kg . of oil were produced every month. Gallipoli sold mostly oil to sailing ships but also the grain and wine that were produced in the Terra d'Otranto area. Therefore 'la città bella', Gallipoli, gave its unique liglil to Europe by exporting its lamp oil. Before electricity all the major European cities, such as London , Berlin , Paris Vienna , Stockholm and Amsterdam
There is also another legend about people from Gallipoli because they say they invented the Marseille soap by using the dregs from the olive grinding and pressing. In town there used to be many soap manufacturers and today there is a road called Via Saponiere, right next to the Church of San Francesco Church of San Giuseppe
Look at the wooden statue of the Cristo Morto. It represents all the people that suffer because of the death of someone and who need comforting. Even though this is a small Church it will fascinate you because it cherishes many memories and secrets. Many men and women have prayed here, kneeling down on the floor, with the sound of the big wooden organ playing in the background.
Gallipoli will surprise you at every corner. Keep walking through the streets and you might come across more churches and bourgeois homes, enriched with impressive ornaments and decorations and hidden in between the other houses. For instance by chance you might see the Church of the Immacolata, the Monastery of Santa Teresa delle Carmelitane Scalze, the Church of San Luigi , the Santi Medici Church , the Carmine Church
In the past, this town had the courage and strength to fight for its freedom. In 1484, four years after Otranto had been attacked and destroyed by the Turks, Gallipoli had to withstand raids from the Venetians. Later on, Gallipoli fought again during the political unification of Italy
Take a look at the house Antonietta De Pace was born in. She was a heroine. 'She was bright, intelligent, reckless and cautious at the same time, forgetting her role as a woman and she did all she could to free her country from oppression'. Marciano the historian wrote this about her. She was an activist and part of the Giovine Italia Movement. In the Terra d'Otranto area she took part in the planning of the 1848 uprising. Then she became well known in Neapolitan Republican circles. You can also take a look at the notice on the Town Hall facade: 'On the 40th anniversary of the Repubblican Constitution, Gallipoli proudly remembers its sons, Emanuele Caracciolo, Gino Delia Ducata, Nicola Darmento, Luigi Schirosi, Fernando Selvaggio, that gave their lives fighting for a free, democratic and anti-Fascist Italy'. Keep breathing in the fresh sea air, walking along Gallipoli's little lanes, appreciating its mysterious charm. Hopefully its bridge, the water and its alleyways will remain untouched and will never be covered with cement and tarmac.
If you want to move inland now, drive off with the sea behind you, otherwise you will find leaving Gallipoli very hard. You will see green olive trees upon mountainous high ground towards Alezio and then you will come across Sannicola and Parabita on gentle hills. Amongst Parabita's hills stands the Monumental Cemetery Italy Alessandria China
'The intelligence, kindness and good humour of Casarano's inhabitants are part of traditions here. Because of its geographical position, it really is one of the biggest and most industrious towns within the Gallipoli area. Its food markets, that show how rich and wealthy. This is how Cosimo De Giorgi described Casarano at the beginning of the 19thcentury. A hundred years have gone by since then. However walking along the old streets of Casarano we have the feeling nothing has changed. The main square is surrounded by old palaces,such as De Judicibus, D'Elia, D'Aquino and Astore, and by aristocratic houses. Before leaving Casarano, you must walk up the hill and take a look at the Byzantine Sanctuary, dedicated to the Madonna della Campana, who protects Casarano along with the patron saint, St. Giovanni Elemosiniere. From the Church's square you can see Casarano and when the sky is clear you can look further too, up to Gallipoli's coast. So we can say that, just as on the coast, even inland the sea is the line drawn between history and dreams.
Sun, water, earth... the Charm of the Salento
Nardò is a mysterious, enigmatic and puzzling town and it holds many secrets. The 'tramontana' wind blows through Nardo, carrying with it many stories and events, memories of one day like another, passion, pain and happiness. It recalls what happened thousands of years ago and then quickly moves on towards another place. Dark and light colours are blurred, they mix together and perhaps only light will guide you through this town. First of all you will see white villas, pale yellow carparo stone and, finally, coloured buildings and shady streets, flanked on both sides by noble houses.
Many legends explain the origin of Nardo's coat of arms. Maybe the bull in it is linked to the Egyptian God of the Sun. They say that this bull, whether it was a God or an animal, found water by digging the ground with its hooves. Certainly, water, sunshine and earth are essential parts of Nardo.
This town has very ancient origins and was first founded in 3559 B.C. First of all came the Messapians. Then, from the th century B.C., the Romans reigned here. Later on, it was conquered by the Longobards and was therefore a Byzantine town for many centuries. After the Normans
The historian Pantaleo Ingusci wrote about this. 'After the rebellion, the royal banner appeared next to the town's one. This flag was ruby red, it bore the picture of a bull and symbolised the town's sought after will to become a free town'. However, only a few days later, an army of 4,000 men spearheaded by the Count, entered Nardo and violently repressed the revolution. A poor priest was tortured and beaten, hung naked on a cross and covered with honey, exposed to flies and wasps under the hot sun in August. Several 'masserie' (big country houses) were burned down. However facts concerning the revolution are rather confused and some historians say the Nardo revolution started because its inhabitants wanted to rebel against the Acquaviva governors and their feudal power. Nardò kept on fighting and people here still proudly remember the day 'their' was once used to heat two rooms, a bedroom and a sitting-room. In the courtyard there is a basin made out of pietra leccese. It belonged to all the houses surrounding it because it was used to wash dishes in. Now, in the same spot, there are geraniums and parsley. Carrying on, you will come across the Church of San Giuseppe
Soon after unexpectedly you will come across the Church of San Doim-nico. a typical Lecce Baroque building. All the figures in the lower part of the facade are somehow linked to the idea of death and pain. On the other hand, the upper part is different and represents the afterlife that protects the world from above. The 1743 earthquake destroyed the Church but the front of the building was not damaged. The rest was redone during the 17tn centuiy with stucco-work and flat altars. Remains of the old Church are kept Republic was proclaimed. In 1920 the farm labourers proclaimed a strike. It was an incredibly well organised one, aimed at making wage conditions better, acquiring land and causing political overthrow. Nonetheless once again uprising was stopped and soon after that the Fascist period started. However the citizens of Nardo are still courageous and keep fighting against injustice and defending their right to work.
This recalls the Arneo, when land was occupied, rights fought for, bicycles (that to farmers here were nearly as important as their own children) were destroyed by the police. Shooting went on, people were arrested and beaten and tear-gas bombs were thrown. All this happened so the land would belong to those who really needed it.
'When the fight was over, as Luigi Tarricone wrote, "people occupying the fields were finding it difficult to survive and more and more security forces were deployed. The outcome of all this was the implementation of the agricultural reform. Consequently, after having felt 'inferior' for centuries, many workers became more aware of their strength and rights'. Walk around Nardo's narrow alleyways and churches and you will slowly feel more familiar with the town. Today the Castle is the Town Hall and its facade was rebuilt during the first years of the 19th century. The Castle bears two coats of arms. One symbol is linked to the Persone family and is that of two cherubs fighting above Mercury, while the Acquaviva governors' emblem is formed by two golden lions, that stand for strength and therefore wealth too. On all the churches you will see another coat of arms, belonging to the Bishop Sanfelice, made up of three little ducks at the top and another three at the bottom and linked to the idea of poverty and humbleness. Moving towards the old part of the town, from Piazza Castello you can walk onto a little road named Via de Pandi. Here you will definitely notice a courtyard and a half open green door. You can peep through and look at a house that is not lived in (even though it does have an aerial). You will also see a rusty old lamp post that looks like it is struggling to remain lit and a black and white chimney. The white part of it can be compared to the past, while its black smoke is like all the years that have gone by. This reminds us of the men and women that used to sit round the fire in the evening in winter. In October, when the fire is lit again after the hot summer, black smoke comes out of the chimney and you can smell it in the streets. This fireplace in the vestry. Destruction and reconstruction, pain and comfort mix and come together once again. 'Listening to Barberia's little organ/ swallows fly/ around the obelisk warmed up by the sun./ From San Domenico and from the Via Lata/ you can feel the 'scirocco' wind / brushing across the square,/ with your hands you can touch/ the low grey sky' (Luigi Tarricone). Then walk on to Piazza Salandra. Buildings that were once workshops and a cake shop, that used to be a little restaurant, surround this square. Look at the famous Sedile. Upon it stands a statue of San Gregorio Armeno. They say that during the 1743 earthquake he turned round and tried to stop the catastrophe. Then take a look at the Palazzo di Citta. After the earthquake, it was rebuilt according to the Rococo canons and today law offices are based here. The Church of San Trifone 19 metres high and was erected in 1769 to express relief and gratefulness after the town had managed to survive the earthquake. You will see four statues made with pietra leccese, the statue of San Giuseppe, Sant' Anna, San Gioacchino and San Domenico. Above, you will see the statue of the Madonna Immacolata. Piazza Salandra is a meeting point for Nardo and one of the liveliest parts of the town. Men gather here for a chat and many young people have decided to open up little businesses close to the square in order to help their town grow and develop. The Parisi Bar was started up in 1922 and is still open. An old man tells us about when, in 1934, Augusto, the owner of the bar, came back from Milan
Once again, real facts and legends blur and mix. For instance look at Maccari's frescos and at the 'Cacciata del Carmine Church , or a portrayal of the Madonna while breast feeding, kept in the Church of San Giuseppe Church of Sant
Then drive back towards the sea. Come out of the town go south and drive towards Gallipoli. You must stop and take a look at the Cenate. They are beautiful villas that were built during the 18m century or at the beginning of the 19tn century. The villas are Moresque, Neoclassical, Neogothic and Art Nouveau style. However you can only look at the villas from the outside. Admire the concave front of Villa Saetta. It is decorated with yellow and red vertical stripes. Then look at the red grand Villa Vaglio Massa that is nowadays called Caputo. Then comes the Cenata di Monsignore that belongs to the Diocesan Curia. It is Neoclassical but enriched with Baroque elements. Villa Caroli is an Art Nouveau villa and today it is called De Martino. The Villa Persone (now villa Venturi) has an outstanding flight of steps to one side and a sculpted facade. Villa Vetere, now named Venturi, has a Classical-looking front.
Finally, take a look at Villa Cristina dei Persone (now De Benedittis). It is fascinating and a symbol of eclectic art as it is a mix of Baroque, Art Nouveau and Oriental decorations.
From here turn off towards Santa Maria al Bagno. This is a seaside resort full of holiday homes spread, all over the area from the beach up to the Four Columns. These columns are the ruins of a Medieval fortress near the sea.
Santa Maria al Bagno has ancient origins but is linked to more modem events like the Holocaust too. Many Jews came here after having being freed from concentration camps. Lots of them stayed here for many years and then left to travel towards the Promised Land. In 1997, Ppina Horowitz wrote: 'I arrived here as a survivor when I was fourteen. I was shocked and traumatised. I had also spent some time in prison with prostitutes, criminals and women sentenced to death. In the Saints' towns (Santa Maria al Bagno, Santa Caterina, Santa Maria di Leuca) I discovered the importance of freedom and kindness'. Moving north now, you will reach Santa Caterina. Amongst the pine wood and close to the rocks you will see beautiful holiday homes belonging to the old and new rich.
Towards the end of the sea front, walk up some steep steps. From Torre dell'Alto you can take a look at the whole bay. 'If you look down from the brink of the High Tower
There is more to come. Portoselvaggio's bay is north from here. It is stunningly beautiful.
Especially if you look at it from above you will immediately notice its clear sparkling blue sea, green trees and a tower that seems to look over the bay sheltering it. In 1979 the bay was almost entirely covered in cement and ruined. However students, citizens and politicians defended it. Consequently, in 1980, it became a nature reserve. It was protected from the 'violence of the new barbarians', as Pantaleo Ingusci stated. He took part in the defence of Portoselvaggio and actually this was his last battle. The way people here got together to defend this beautiful spot was surprising and impressive. Back to the coast road, reach Torre Uluzzo. This bay is especially famous because of a kind of flower that is widespread here and called Asfodelo. Apart from flowers, here you will also find sea fennel bushes and channels that were originally made by ancient rivers in the limestone that used to flow underground here millions of years ago. There are also finds dating back to the middle and late Paleolithic period.
Walking downwards along the coast road, you will come across the Palude del Capitano ('the Captain's swamp'). This is a 'S.I.C area (a site recognised at European level) because here there are typically Mediterranean plants and herbs, such as thyme, sage, tamarisks and also very rare species. Then reach Torre Sant'Isidoro. This is an important sea resort and it is also well-known because of its fish farms where you can buy mussels, fish and farmed fish.
Now leave the sea and drive back inland towards Copertino. While travelling, look at the blended colours of the landscape. Fields are full of brown and green patches, stones, yellow grass, green pine trees and prickly pears, while the sea is bright blue.
There are many fortified masserie in this area, that is just a few kilometres from the sea. They were built in order to defend the town from the Saracens' and the pirates' raids. These big buildings are in the countryside and today many of them have been restored in order to preserve their towers and other typical architectural feamres. Many of them have become unique and exclusive big holiday homes. The structure of these buildings is very simple. Once materials and ammunitions were stored on the ground floor and some of them still have triangular-based towers. The area around Nardo is full of masserie. Masseria Giudice Giorgio dates back to 1500. You can stay in one of its smart rooms if you want. There is a restaurant in what used to be Masseria Bellanova's stables. Other masserie around here are Masseria Console, Pantalei, Olivastro, Rotogaleta, Zanzara, Nucci and Corsari. This is a new kind of tourism based on the idea of using old traditional buildings and preserving the land in order to help this area achieve growth and development. Go back to the sea, to Porto Cesareo, one of the most important fishing towns in the whole of the Salento area. It is famous for its white beaches, high sand dunes and clear water. However a lot of houses and other buildings have been built here illegally since the seventies. Torre Cesarea, Porto Cesareo's tower, dates back to the 16th century.
Porto Cesareo's old town is not as special as other old towns in this area because Porto Cesareo only formed during the second half of the 18™ century. It is noisy and full of people in summer, while it becomes much quieter from September to June. All year round ships based here provide the fish shops in town and several bigger fish markets with fresh fish from the Ionian.
Going inland again, Copertino is the last stop. Copertino's excellent wine, named after the town, became a D.O.C. wine (territorial-based certification of wine) in 1976 and it is exported all over the world. In Copertino's old town, still not as completely appreciated as it should be, stand bourgeois houses and noble residences. However there is more to come.
For instance you must visit the Castle. It is grand, impressive and elegant. It is nearly as it was and its walls lean on the moat. Look at the decorations on the Baroque door and the Renaissance balcony, that has a fret-worked balustrade. The door is richly decorated and here you can read about Kings and Queens , nobles and feudatories that lived in this mansion. This Castle dates back to the Norman-Swabian period. It was built in 1540 according to the architectural and military rules following the invention of gun powder. Later on, the Castle was made bigger and refined by the Angevins. Take a look at the galleries all around the building. Often cultural events and exhibitions are on here. Copertino's saint is called San Giuseppe di Copertino, the 'Patron Saint of Flying'. In 2004 the town celebrated his 400 years. However the Saint left evidence of his presence especially in the Sanctuary of Santa Maria della Grottella, that is just outside the town, towards San Donato, where the saint lived for some years after having been involved as a builder in the construction of this religious Sanctuary when he was fifteen. He is the patron saint of students and pilots. He lived during the 16™ century and became a monk 'by mistake' because they say he passed the exam thanks to a miracle. Here, in Santa Maria della Grottella, you might finally find some answers to several questions and doubts. Be inspired by the miracles of a young and popular saint, flying, the fact that San Giuseppe da Copertino was also celebrated by Carmelo Bene, a genius of contemporary theatre... However answers still remain uncertain and mysterious...
