The Baroque City

 
Lecce. city of Baroque, the city of poets, architects, talented artists, cathedrals, churches, arches, obelisks, nympheia, palaces, 'unique aristocratic houses, decorated with Baroque festoons and creatures' (Vittorio Bodini), narrow and tortuous alleyways and wide streets flanked by trees. This is the place swifts fly back to in the evening, as the sun goes down and stone turns to gold.
Back streets wind their own way through the town, leading expert visitors to undiscovered and unique spots. Lecce, city of rose windows, volutes, spiral-shaped stone ornaments enriched with acanthus, decorations with vines and flowers, embellishments, spiral columns, festoons, windows with three lights and arches that stand out against the blue sky, pilasters, busts of Saints, holy relics, statues of angels upon palaces, pelicans above churches and balconies decorated with bright red geraniums.
This town is worth visiting. Wander about, letting words, verses or maybe the wind guide you through it, following the sound of music coming from a piano or the attractive smell of peppers being roasted... Stan your tour of Lecce from Porta Napoli ('Napoli Gate'). This monument was built in 1548 in honour of the Emperor, Charles V. It was erected exactly where one of the four entrances to the town used to be. This entrance was called 'San Giusto' because they say it was built upon the Saint's ashes. Nowadays it is a meeting point for young University students who study at the'Ateneo' or in nearby Monteroni. Looking down on the ground, on the basalt raving stones, you will see traces of what was left by the first inhabitants of this town, the Messapians. Lecce's walls were originally built during this period and later on Aragonese walls were built upon them. Secondly, several necropoli were discovered in this spot and they are more ancient than the walls surrounding the town. For instance, the tomb of a child between 8 and 10 years old, and dating back to the end of the 4th century B.C., was found near the 'Arco di Trionfo'. You can see photographs and find out more about this by taking a look at the board to the left of the Arch.
Then turn right just after Porta Napoli and walk along Via Palmieri. Here you will see evidence of many different historical periods and cultures. After traces of Messapian and Aragonese domination, you will come across the Santa Maria della Porta Church, built during the eighteenth century. Then comes Palazzo Guarini, typically Rococo, and the Paisiello Theatre, that was inaugurated in 1870 and named after a famous musician from Taranto and recently restored. Then you will see Palazzo Palmieri. The front of this Palace dates back to the fifteenth century and a Messapian underground tomb was found inside it. Finally, there are several Roman mosaics in Piazzetta Panzera ('Panzera Square') that have come to light. In this area there are also many ethnic and religious art shops and workshops that mostly make objects out of pietra Leccese, that is a particularly friable and ductile stone typical of Lecce.
At the end of the street, just after the Corso Vittorio   Emanuele   crossroads,   Piazza Duomo will unexpectedly appear before your eyes. Here you can admire the Duomo (the Cathedral), the Bishop's Palace, and the Seminary.
This spot is rather secluded and, in a way, detached from the rest of the town. At night time, street lights reflect onto the pietra leccese creating a magical and rarefied atmosphere, while, during the day, the stone has beautiful golden and yellow shades. Just as you enter the square you will have the impression Saint Oronzo, Saint Irene and Saint Venera (above you, upon the propyleia) are welcoming you into the square. The bell-tower is just next to the Cathedral. The work on it was carried out by Zimbalo and it is 72 metres high. Zimbalo reproduced Bishop Pappagoda's pastoral as the bell-tower was commissioned by the Bishop himself. At the very top of the building, there is a turning iron flagpole representing Saint Oronzo.
Baroque art is in every corner of this square and all the buildings are linked by a common architectural language that can also be seen in the way the buildings are arranged. For instance, the most richly decorated side of the Cathedral is not the main one but the side of the building, as the Church was designed to face in this direction. On the other side, the one next to the Bishopric, there is a big modern bronze door, that was commissioned for the Year 2000 Jubilee. However, apart from the buildings' facades there is still more to come. For instance the Diocesan Museum (entrance here is not free) is now in the old Seminary. Abeautiful seventeenth   century   well,   designed by Giuseppe Cino, stands in the courtyard. It is richly   decorated   with   acanthus shoots, bundles  of grapes   and  angels holding festoons. It is one of the most important symbols of Lecce's Baroque architecture and was dedicated to water. Notice that the Chapel faces the courtyard. It was built in 1696 and probably the altars inside it were designed by Cino too. Back on Via Libertini, walk towars Porta Rudiae and, a bit further on, a friendly black bird will welcome you here. There are many workshops in this area too. For instance several statues of Saints and also glass papier mache and clay items are made here every day.
Continuing you will see the Church of Santa Teresa and the flight of steps leading up to the Conservatory of Sant'Anna. During the seventeenth century, this place was a shelter for noble women. Today, on the other hand, it is used for ceremonies and exhibitions. In the Conservatory's garden there is a ficus tree which is about 15 metres high. Its trunk is knotty and twisted and its foliage is green. This tree is most definitely a symbol of time and history.
Back on Via Libertini again, admire the Chiesa del Rosario, which was Zimbalo's last creation and the perfect conclusion to his works. Ahead of you stands Porta Rudiae ('Rudiae Gate'). Look at it carefully and you will learn a lot about Lecce's ancient history. At the top, upon the capitals of the Corinthian columns, look at the busts representing Malennio, who founded the town and was its first King. Then admire Dauno, Malennio's son, Equippa, Dauno's sister, and finally Idomeneo, King of Crete. Idomeneo married Equippa and consequently became King of Lecce too. 'Instead of fighting he conquered the town and found his Queen through love. He reigned with wisdom and helped the town grow'(Barbieri).
However, above everything and everybody, stands Saint Oronzo's statue. It looks down onto the town, protecting it. In this way, Christianity seems to be above paganism, but doesn't wipe it out completely. If you go back a few steps and then turn right after the Church of S. Rosario, you will get to Via Santa Maria del Paradise Follow a wall covered in poems and enter the so called 'Giravolte' area. Massimo Melillo, a journalist from the Salento area, describes the 'Giravolte' as a place that is not typical of Southern Italy. 'This area is multicultural. The square at the back of Saint Anna's Conservatory reminds visitors of different ethnic groups and cultures that have been here like the Spanish, the Normans, the Aragonese... The fascinating thing about this town is the way foreigners are welcomed here.  Lecce   is   linked   to   the   whole Mediterranean area and while walking in the streets you can smell scents from different, faraway countries..'.
The alleyways in the Giravolte area are so narrow and tortuous they are like a maze anybody could get lost in. Anyhow, walk through these little lanes and you will soon get to the Convento delle Scalze that now is the Church of Madre di Dio and San Nicold. Via de Angelis (that is now called Via Carlo Russi) is close. This road flanks the ancient walls like many other streets but it is special because it will always be known as 'Vittorio Bodini's road'.
He was a famous Salentine poet. He once wrote: 'This twisted wobbly wad / was my skin. Stones and human paving / whose smell and joyful sadness / permeated into my blood.
Walking on, you will get to Porta S. Biagio ('St. Biagio Gate') and then from here you can reach Via de' Peroni, where most of Lecce's night life goes on, and then the Church of San Matteo. Melillo described this area by writing: 'Lecce's Baroque architecture is breathtaking and joyful. When you get to Saint Matteo's Church, the first impression you will have is that it's theatrical and like a stage effect and that there is nothing behind if. The front of the Church is concave at the top and convex at the bottom and there is a continuous shift between light and shadow. If you want to go out in the evening for a beer
and a snack you could even visit the Church at night, as Don Carlo has decided to keep it open till late. The so called 'Nicodemo's Nights' are evening Church meetings in the Centre of Lecce. They aim at involving more young people in religion by considering it from new points of view. Going along and down this road, you will come across 'Casa dei Perroni', the house they say belonged to Saint Oronzo. On its big door there is an angel flying down from the sky carrying a piece of bread shaped like a ring.
They say that one day Saint Francis was begging and knocked on the door. 'Suddenly a pageboy gave him a big, white loaf of bread and then disappeared. A member of the family rushed to the entrance because he had heard a knock on the door. In the name of God, Francis thanked him for the bread he held in his hands, but the man said it wasn't his family's bread' (Fatalo). After that, an angel was sculpted on the door in memory of the miracle.
If you keep on walking, you will get to the place where '/or hours and hours the Sun brightens up the amphitheatre / churches look golden and Saints / and their porous faces stand behind spiral columns''. Thus wrote Bodini about Piazza Sant'Oronzo, Lecce's main square that is very hot and sunny on summer afternoons.
Saint Oronzo's statue is above the square and, in a way, it protects it. Once, this piazza was an important meeting point for merchants and traders and was therefore surrounded by workshops and porticos. A modern and anonymous 'McDonald's' is in the square while, on the other hand, 'Bar Alvino' brings back old memories. However, if you want to get hold of typical genuine products, you should leave the main square. The famous wolf is still in the centre of the square, surrounded by an oval shaped pavement. The wolf in the picture is walking under a holm-oak and the animal represented here is linked to the Oriental sun myth. 'Otranto's area was famous for its holm-oaks and olive trees' (De Simone). You can stop and take a look at the Romar Amphitheatre and the Sedile's windows.They say that when the 'scirocco' blows (a wind from the south) you can see a slightly damp patch that goes from Tito Schipa's Cafe to the Castromediano Square because of ar. underground river.
The Sedile (Seat of the Mayor) was erected in 1592 and used to be a hall used for meeting-and court sessions. Its big glass window -were supposed to show everyone that public. affairs were clear and fair. In 1851 it became the Town Hall. Above its Gothic-looking portals there are arms, trophies and coats of arms representing the town and Philip III of Spain. Four robust angular piers support a wide Renaissance portico on the top of the building.
The adjoining small Church of San Marco was built by Venetian merchants in 1543. It shows just how well-developed and long lasting the trade between Lecce and Venice was. The Church was built according to the Renaissance style and its portal is full of engravings.
After the urban development plan sanctioned in 1934, the square was completely redesigned.Other important buildings are the Santa Maria della Grazia Church and the Roman Amphitheatre. The Amphitheatre dates back to the 1st or 2nd century A.D. It was slowly brought back to light and in 1938 two parts of it were cleared out. In the uncovered part the steps are divided from the arena by a balustrade that is richly decorated with reliefs depicting hunting scenes and fights between animals such as bulls, lions and bears. This is a symbolic place for the people who live here also because often (especially at the end of the season) Lecce football supporters fill the Amphitheatre with their yellow and red flags. Nevertheless the most important part of the square is most definitely Saint Oronzo's column.
They say it was erected exactly where the famous Saint was beheaded. It was built in 1666 as thanksgiving for the Saint who saved Lecce from the plague in 1656.This marble column was once at the end of the Via Appia and was given to Lecce by Brindisi, a nearby town. However the statue of the Saint was destroyed by fireworks in 1737 and therefore another was made after two years and coated with copper in a Venetian workshop. Not far from the square stands Charles V's Castle. It was built around a medieval fortress dating back to the thirteenth century. and belonging to Gualtieri VI of Brienne However the quadrangular shape of the pre-existing building is still visible. The building of Charles V's Castle was carried out by . military architect, Gian Giacomo of Acaya; between 1539 and 1549.
If you want to visit the Castle, one way to do it is by going to exhibitions or taking part in
cultural events here.This building is still being restored, however you can visit its wonderful
AND SPACIOUS rooms or have a drink in the bar on the terrace in the evening.
Right next to the Castle you will see the Politeama Greco', Lecce's main theatre, where you can listen to opera or watch interesting lively shows. As you walk back towards Saint Oronzo's square, look towards Corso Vittorio Emanuele and you will see the Church of Sant'Irene. It is a symbol of the counter-Reformation architecture of Lecce and was dedicated to Irene, who was Lecce's patron saint before   Saint   Oronzo.   The building's facade bears the town's coat of arms, represented by a wolf under a holm-oak tree. The nearby Ex Convento dei Teatini is nearly always open because of the exhibitions that are held there.
Lecce can really be described as a mix of cultures, people, styles and historical eras. Imagination, ideas, thoughts, ideals and fears all came toghether and became a part of Lecce's architecture.
The Basilica of Santa Croce is the greatest expression of Lecce's Baroque style. To get there you must go back to Piazza Sant'Oronzo and then turn into Via Templari, before Via Trinchese. After Via Matteotti go towards Via Umberto I. Just a few metres and then, suddenly, on your right, you will see a stunning Baroque facade, with a splendid rose window in the centre. However you cannot take a picture of the whole building because the square in front of it is too small, so all you can do is admire it, sticking your nose up in the air.
Building work started in 1549 and ended in 1646. The architects involved in the project were Gabriele Riccardi, Francesco Antonio Zimbalo, Cesare Penna and Guiseppe Zimbalo.
Sunshine lights up Santa Croce early in the morning and at dusk. Shades of yellow, gold and red reflect onto the building, lighting up lions, dragons, telamons, faces and putti, that embrace symbols of spiritual and temporal power. The symbol of the Celestini is at the top of the building. It is a cross that represents the Church's victory.
The Ex Convento dei Celestini is right next to Santa Croce and today this is where cultural  events,  exibitions,  concerts  and conferences organized by the Lecce Province are held. A bit further on, on the other side, you will see Palazzo Adorno, that stands out because of its facade's smooth ashlar and because of the inside courtyard. This building was bought by the Province and now is the seat of the presidentship. Even further on, there is the area that was once lived in by Albanians, people from Mesagne, Jews and by the exiles of Corona, a place that was conquered by the Turks at the end of the fifteenth century. Right in the centre, in amongst these back streets, there is a Greek Church. Many balconies in this area are decorated with geraniums: inhabitants call them "pianta dei cornuti" because they say that once women used these flowers as an excuse to remain on their balconies while actually they were waiting for their lovers to walk by.
Outside the old town, you can visit the Torre del Parco, where the Governor once lived. Maria d'Enghien once lived here too, but then, she was forced to. There are many stories and legends about this place, for instance one about a bear that lived in the moat (that is now private and cultural events are held here).
All that was left of this big park is now part of the Marcelline Nuns Institute. It isn't far from here, while the little temple now stands in the Public Park, in the town centre , close to Palazzo dei Celestini. This park is the perfect place if you want to have a break in the shade. On the other hand, if you want, you could take a look at the Ex Church of San Francesco della Scarpa, not far from the railway station. This is where the 'Tito Schipa' Concert and Orchestra Institution is now based.
According to a well-known legend, this Church was built exactly where Saint Francis left a shoe on his way back from Jerusalem. They also say that after having eaten an orange, he threw the seeds on the ground and miraculously a tree started growing. If you wish to, you can try walking around Lecce, discovering all its little hidden alleyways and back streets, while sipping an ice coffee and while angels and strange creatures look down on you from the buildings. However, every place in Lecce has
a life of its own and everyone who lives here has a favourite spot. Every part of the town has its own history and only by walking around you will be able to become more familiar with Lecce and find your way round more easily.
If you wish to visit the area around Lecce then you could go to San Cesario, about five kilometres away from here. Every little town in the Salento has its own square in the sentre. San Cesario's square is called Piazza Garibaldi and the town itself is the outcome of the two different dominations that governed there for centuries.
The enormous Palazzo Ducale, that now is the Town Hall, is 25 metres high and therefore it stands out compared with the surrounding houses. The front of the Palace is decorated with mythological statues and busts of the feudataries' ancestors so that the noble origins of the governors could be well broadcast. This building is also decorated with a heraldic lion symbolising the Marulli Dukes; there is also another lion and above it you will see a ducal crown and an eagle, that was Charles V's symbol. In the Palace's attic there is the Town Museum (look at sheet). This makes us think that maybe power is culture, or perhaps it will be sometime in the future. Moving on, you can discover yet another town that has a very long history. 'Under a sapphire sky, where the air is mild, amongst bushy olive groves and never-ending land, lies Caballino, upon a humble hill. Slowly it spreads out, nearly forming the shape of a
 
pear...'. This is what the Duke Sigismondo Castromediano, who was an archaeologist. . poet   and   a  patriot,   once   wrote   about Cavallino and its ancient history. For instance, the remains of a Messapian settlement were found very close to the town They probably date back to the 8th or 6th century  B.C. You can visit the  'Museo Diffuso' too (look at sheet). In the centre of Cavallino, just like in many other towns, there are a Church and a Palace the famous 'Palazzo Baronale-Marchesale ('The Palace of Barons and Marquises'). The Castromediano-Limburg  Residence  looks onto   the   renovated   square.   Kiliano of Limburg's statue is inside the building. was the forefather of the Castromediano family and the first of his family to arrive in the area.
The Gallery is considered one of the most beautiful noble Residence rooms in the whole of the Salento area. It is richly decorated and full of statues sculpted with pietra leccese The Duke of Castromediano himself lived in this Palace.          
The Convento dei Padri Domenicani (The Dominican Fathers' Convent') has recently been restored and is worth visiting too. Also the Casina Vernazza ('Vernazza House') is in the centre of a park and was renovated thanks to the town's support. Casina Vernazza. is slowly becoming a cultural meeting point that aims at promoting events and making sure the town's history will not be forgotten.
 
 
The 'tarantate' and The God of The South
 
"How does a man from the South / picture God / if not as a twisted olive tree / worn by time?' (Bodini). So maybe God is an olive tree in Galatina, the so called 'Grecia Salentina' ('Greek SALENTO') and Mag lie. Galatina is famous for its 'tarantate' women. 'Here, in the Southern countryside, people always look for the God that chose to be with people. They are confused and grope about in the darkness of history searching for their real identities. They are dreamers, magicians, witches, poets, philosophers, flagellants, late sinners, tarantate, painters of votive offerings...' (Tommaso di Ciaula). Not all that many years ago, tarantate danced to the rhythm of percussion and sounds in order to be cured from the taranta's bite (a spider's bite). During those  years, on the 29th of June, Peter and Paul's saint days, these women used to go to a small Chapel in the centre of Galatina to drink water there and be cured or to thanks the Saints. Then they started dancing again Galatina was therefore considered a special place that was immune from the taranta's bite.
The Chapel of San Paolo is in the square in the centre of town, at the beginning of Via Garibaldi. However finding it and entering it is not simple. This small Church is part of a burgeois Palace and it is difficult to believe this is the magical place these women used to come and visit. Now there are no more tarantate but Saint Paul's Day ( 'San Paolo') is still an important date for the whole of the Salento area.
The taranta is part of this area's history, 'a history of silence and cries' because 'the pizzica (a traditional dance) is meaningful and can't be compared with boorish and demoralising  folklore' (Antonio Errico).
 
The tarantate started dancing because of pain and then they needed to be cured and feel better in order to take revenge on what had happened to them. This in a way is linked to the South, described as 'having no rivers nor angels but only priests and stones'. Many 'ancient stories about pain, hysteria and poverty' represent this area and can help us understand its culture, history and people.
Starting from the square, paved with ancient basalt stones, you can visit the old town which hasn't been rediscovered as it should be yet. There are many Palaces in the old part of Galatina. A small road leads to the grand and incredible Piazzetta Orsini.
The Church of Santa Caterina d'Alessandria is outstanding and considered one of the most beautiful religious buildings in the entire Salento area. It was also named 'Basilica minore pontificia' ('Lower Papal Basilica'). This Church was erected for the people of the Latin religion' between 1384 and 1391 having been commissioned by Raimondello Orsini del Balzo.
It was built according to the Apulian Romanesque style, and is divided into three  naves.  This   style  is  a  mix  of Romanesque,   Gothic,   Byzantine   and Norman influences.
As soon as you go in you will be struck by the paintings. These frescos are divided into 150 different scenes. The columns' capitals are decorated with pictures and the Church   also contains the tombs of Raimondello and his son. Also  thanks  to Raimondello,  Palazzo Orsini was built.  It used to be Saint Catherine of Alessandria's Hospital. It was erected just beside the Convent and the Church to welcome pilgrims. Nowadays, Palazzo Orsini is the Town Hall. 'Griko' is spoken in Galatina and in other eight towns in the Salento area. This language comes from Greek (it is a sort of aulic Greek) and nowadays it is still spoken by   older   people.   A   famous   Griko expression is  'kalos  irtate'  that means 'welcome'.
The Guglia di Raimondello ('Raimondello's steeple') which is the bell-tower of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, is in Soleto. According to an old legend, the steeple was built overnight by four devils. Therefore were evil powers obeying the Gods? Or were men then so frightened by such architectural beauty that they could only attribute it to the demons? Anyhow, this beautiful, 90 metes high late Gothic bell-tower witnesses the power the Orsini del Balzo had and therefore also their wealth, making Soleto become the capital of what today is called 'Grecia ('Greece'). The Guglia di Raimondello was built in the thirteenth century just like the Chapel of Santo Stefano. It is small and in the low part of the town. It lived throngh a period during which the Salento flourished and came to agreements with the East. The portal dates back to the late-Romantic period. The bell-tower is vaulted and partly Gothic while the front of the building made out of 'pietra leccese' (a local store quarried in the Lecce area). Inside, these are fascinating frescos and inscriptions that are almost all Byzantine. The roof is trussed  and  the  "Cristo  benedicente ('Blessing Christ') fresco is in the apse. The main figure is surrounded by four bishops holding  a  scroll  ornament containing  prayers from Byzantine liturgy.
A big and twisted olive tree stands in the  square at the entrance of Sternatia, still part  of the 'Greek' area. This tree has been here  for many years and maybe Cherishes many  secrets. It is called the 'God of the South'  because it has stubbornly lived through wind and cold and reminds  us of old farmers, bent down working on their land without ever complaining. They also call it the 'God of the South' because it has given men something to live on and provided them with shade w hen the weather was too hot. They rested under it as women sang. They call it  'God of the South' because  it knows how time goes by here. It goes by quickly but sometimes  we   have   the impression time has forgotten this place. Time flies especially if you look at the Chiesa dell'Assunta clock. You may ask yourself whether clocks in Sternatia still make sense or if  they tick on forever. And even if they spoke, who would listen to them...? Maybe because of a spell in Griko, perhaps about lemmons and whitewash, time stopped in this little town. Amongst churches, crypts, dark underground  olive  mills, streets where you can can smell peppers being cooked at lunch time, women seem to have been forgotten by time.  These women were brave and suffered in silence. They carried on with their lives, singing to the moon in Griko. The cobbler, the  teacher, donna Lucia, poor farmers, Nina, the housewives, the man who sold reeds for looms, Giorgio who was so strong he could pick up his donkey (that weighed 200 kilos) have all been forgotten by time. However Cesare De Santis, who was born in Sternatia, has written about this place and its people.
Yellow is Sternatia's colour, because pagan and religious rituals mix here.  Perhaps someone stole some colour from the Sun and hid it in jasmine flowers, in bitter lemons and closed them up in courtyards so the colour wouldn't fade away. Even when the sky is cloudy, yellow welcomes people here, comforts them and reminds them about how important hope  and hospitality  are. Therefore to welcome people you can say : 'Irtamo, griki, san aderfia / E citti chora / Aderfo ene ja ma / Ispu erkete na ma vriki'. It means 'Greeks, we came here as brothers, whoever comes here is a brother and a guest'. Palazzo Granafei is not far from the Church. It is a fortress that dates back to the 18th century and was commissioned by some marquis from the area. In 1800 it was made more beautiful and one part became a tobacco manufacturing industry. This Palace is rather hidden amongst alleys and back streets but it faces a beautiful square, paved in white slabs of stone. Inside, in the cloister, grass has grown amongst stones and wells, while a more modern aerial and a glass lift remind visitors about just how much time has gone by. By going outside and walking through more back streets, you can easily exit the town walls, built during the fourteenth century. You will immediately have the impression these walls still give the inhabitants the feeling they are being protected and that they are suspended in time.
However, nowadays there are only the ruins of the walls, for instance the old entrance to the town, Porta Fidia. A few steps down, there is an underground olive oil mill, built between the 15th and the 18th century and recently restored. It worth going down here to take a look and. have an idea of how people made a living out of oil production. On the other hand going up a few steps, you can take a look, at the whole town from above, as though you were beyond time. On the other side of the town walls, you can visit the Crypt of San Sebastiano, it was dug out of a big rock between the 9th and 11th century. Inside the crypt, there still are traces of frescos depicting the Trinity and Saint Sebastian, the Christian martyr this building is named after. These paintings are like a prayer for all mankind Here   you   can   meditate   about   the meaning of time. It goes by but appears to have stopped at the same time. You. may be afraid of being abandoned here even by God and have to pray in front of an olive tree.
Spiralling is everywhere. As you walk through the town you are bound to end up in the same spot  you started  from. The Ex Convento dei Dominicani was erected during the sixteenth century. It includes a Baroque church and a cloister courtyard. Now it is the Town Hall. Another olive tree wishes a 'have a good journey' to leaving visitors. However the last things people see as they leave are the Church of San Vito and the Madonna. Saints hidden away in crypts or looking onto pale yellow streets create a unique religious atmosphere that will accompany you  during your tour. Calimera is not far from here.  Maria Montanaro, Luigia   Bianco,   Epifania Cucurachi, Lucia    di    Donfrancesco, Assunta Pugliese, Lina Tommasi and Luigia Tommasi should describe this town.
These women died in a fire here in 1960. 'We obeyed landowners / and worked on a holiday just for a piece of bread / and flames burned us alive / while we were happy and satisfied with our lives / and we were young/ but we  were  women / Damned women! Now  we  are  God's angels! / Stop a moment, whoever you are / and wet your face / it will be like a caress for us'. If God can hide in an olive tree, woman are heroines, used to working hard at home and outside. But actually they are 'normal' woman because in the South 'being normal' means being strong. Nowadays only an inscription    (in    Italian    and    Griko) commemorates what happened. It is opposite the place where the factory used to be, in Largo Immacolata, just a few hundreds  of metres from the  square. Really, since then, not all that many years have gone by, but we can still picture those women's voices and see their tired eyes and have the impression this happened ages ago. There is a notice board describing a Greek Church that is no longer here. Nevertheless suddenly, while admiring the 'Chiesa Immacolata' we meet a woman and this reminds us about how much Time likes deceiving and teasing men here! She smokes a cigarette and talks about the fire and the factory's stairs, while surrounded by old objects and bags for whoever wants one. She invites whoever wants to learn more about the past to her house, 'Zeni su en ise ettu' ('You are not a foreigner here in Calimera1).
Time goes by but even when everything seems different, maybe nothing has really changed at all.
The 'Chiesa Madre' ('the main Church') is in Piazza del Sole. A small Chapel is not far from the Church and inside it there is a wooden many coloured crucifix in full relief, dating back to the 16th-17th century. This crucifix represents Christ just before his death. His eyes are open, as in the 'Cristo patiens' iconography. They say it was stolen, thrown into the sea and then miraculously rediscovered, untouched. Not far away, in the Park, stands a little shrine with a funeral stele in it, dating back to the 4th century B.C. This stele was actually originally discovered in Athens and given to the town of Calimera in 1960 'as proof of ancient common origins'. This means there still is a link between this area and Greece. Opposite, stands the Church   of   St.   Brizio.   Calimera is fascinating    because    of    its many contradictions.  It's  a mix of religion, myths and sacred rituals. Just like the story about the miraculous stone. The Chapel of San Vito is on the Martano. Even   now,   every yar, an ancient and magical ritual is celbrated here on Easter Monday,  to wish for fertility and health. The Church contains a famous stone, called 'la petra de Santu Vitu', that dates back to prehistoric times. It has a hole in the middle and incredibly everybody can go through it. You must do it if you want to have a good season. Still in the centre of 'Greece' your journey can continue moving on to Martano and then to Zollino. These town are famous for their Griko language, songs and unforgettable old legends. Right at the entrance of the town, you will see a red PCI flag outside an old political party seat. This represents the will to change things, to earn on fighting. It reminds people here of local protests and of men sitting on doorsteps, talking about politics, with their faces burned by the sun and holding glasses filled with red wine in their big hands.
On the way to the square you will see other flags blowing in the wind, exactly where new political meeting points are. for those who still believe in politics. On doorsteps, young boys and girls chat about their dreams and ideals.
The church's facade is brightened up by the sun. The wind carries brief thoughts and gives strength to the God of the South and to its people. Maybe once dolmens and menhirs were built for the wind, whilst now they are lost and spread all over the countryside.
If you want to find legends about ladies and gentlemen and visit an outstanding castle and humble-looking bourgeois houses, then you should move further South. In Corigliano D'Otranto, the De' Monti governors built their Castle in order to defend themselves from raids and from the Saracens' attacks. Fearless men withstood the Turks' sieges with great strength. They also mocked them by throwing pieces of cheese down from the city walls, showing they did not wish to surrender. After the De' Monti period, more peaceful years followed, when the Trane governed the town. Thanks to the Trane family, during this period, the mansion acquired a beautiful Baroque front and four circular towers (this is a unique asset amongst Salento Castles). On every tower,  Saints and allegories linked to the four theological virtues are represented,    such    as    San    Michele (strength),         Sant'Antonio Abate (moderation), San Giorgio (prudence) and San Giovanni Battista (justice). Around the Castle, there is still a moat. Events are often set here, for instance the "Vutti festival' in April. According to a legend, one of the last owners of the Castle used the secret passage that started from here and led to the Castle of Martano to rush off in his carriage at night. The ancient mansion is in good condition and you can visit a part of it thanks to the 'Kalos Irtate'. This is the name of an association made up of young people from Corigliano. In summertime if you want you can have a cocktail in the bar on the inside terrace.  The  horrible  cement building opposite the castle's entrance will be behind you so you will be able to admire the big plain and  acknowledge   the   strategic importance of the fortress. Starting from  'Caporta'   which   is   the northern entrance to the town, you will come across several little roads that form a kind of labyrinth. There is an inscription on the Caporta entrance, which is 'Don't envy what's inside the walls surrounding the town'.
Start visiting Corigliano from its square. Piazza San Nicola. However first of all you should take a look at the Lucchetti Arch, that Cola Robi commissioned in order to protect and bless his house. This arch is decorated  with  symbols,  metaphorical figures   and  allegories,  giving  us  the impression it was created by God and not by a clever artist who sculpted it using pietra leccese (a local kind of malleable stone). The decorations upon the arch depict faith, eternal love and also death. Going back to the square, take a look at the pink Palazzo Comi. On its facade you will see a cherub holding a fake mullioned window with two lights. Then turn onto Via Chiesa. The houses on this street are small and neat and like little white pearls held together in a necklace. Look out for the least decorated house and you will realise how this town was held together   by   its   simple   lifestyle   and    understand its  sentimental background. The plainest building is on the right side of the street. It bears the inscription: ' because of bereavement in this family,  building works were not completed here'. This serves as an explanation to all the people that go past here now (and did in the past too) and who ask themselves why this is the only house with no richly decorated friezes on it...
Clocks tick, time goes by here and lemons ripen. This still remains a land of never-ending contradictions. The town of Maglie is only a few kilometres away but you will still have the feeling you have travelled a long way to get here. Recent historical events are highlighted in Maglie. For instance there is a square dedicated to Francesca Capece. Here stands a 17th century Palace that has now become the 'Francesca Capece High School'. You will also see a statue representing her, sculpted by Antonio Bortone in 1899. Secondly, you will come across the monument dedicated to Aldo Moro. Therefore Maglie is in a way more modem and not as peaceful and quiet as other towns in this area, even though 'only' twenty thousand people live here. There are many shops and political party offices in the several aristocratic palaces in Via Roma.